Monthly Archives: March 2025

Churnet Valley Railway

Churnet Valley Railway, Kingsley & Froghall Station, Staffordshire
Churnet Valley Railway: Kingsley & Froghall Station, Staffordshire

On Friday March 7th 2025 the enterprising, ambitious Churnet Valley Railway operated the first passenger-carrying train to the site of its new Leek (Churnet Valley) station:  Our First Heritage Open Day – What A Huge Success! – Churnet Valley Railway.

(I wish the CHR had not hijacked the brand ‘Heritage Open Day’ which has been the brand of England’s annual celebration of the nation’s history and culture since 1994.)

Leek is a market town with a current population of twenty thousand, which until 1965 was an important rail crossroads created by the North Staffordshire Railway, the much-loved “Knotty”, linking the Staffordshire Moorlands with Stoke-on-Trent, Macclesfield and Uttoxeter, where main lines extended to London, Birmingham, Manchester and Derby.

The north-to-south route stretched from near Macclesfield to Uttoxeter on the line from Crewe to Derby, while the westerly route reached Leek from Stoke-on-Trent.  A branch line eastwards from Leek Brook to Waterhouses formed an end-on junction with the 2ft 6in-gauge Leek & Manifold Valley Light Railway, built to serve a dairy at Ecton though the terminus was further on at Hulme End.  It opened in 1904 and closed thirty years later, shortly after the creamery at Ecton closed.

Services declined in stages between 1956 and 1970, except for a freight connection between the Oakamoor Sand Sidings and Stoke.  Track was lifted but the trackbed remains on the ten-mile line westwards between Leek and Stoke and south from Oakamoor to Alton Towers and Denstone.  The routes north from Leek to Macclesfield and south of Denstone to Uttoxeter have been blocked by redevelopment, including road improvements and the vast JCB factory at Rocester.

The site of the original Leek station is now a Morrisons supermarket.

The Churnet Valley Railway punches well above its weight.  It grew out of earlier efforts to safeguard the railways around Leek from 1971 onwards, and from small beginnings focused on taking over the seven-mile route through the valley between Oakamoor and Leek Brook, which was accomplished when heritage train services began in 1996.  The further mile to the site of the new Leek station was added in 2024.

The stations are interesting in their own right and a testament to the energy behind their restoration.

Leek Brook is only accessible by rail at present.  It was the junction for the St Edward’s Hospital tramway, which ran three-quarters of a mile through the grounds of the Staffordshire County Mental Hospital, using 220-volt DC electric overhead.  Passengers were conveyed in a second-hand London horse tram, but the main purpose of the tramway was supplying the hospital with coal.  Passenger service didn’t last beyond the 1920s, but the coal traffic continued to the end of 1954.

Cheddleton station is the only original building remaining, and was famously saved in 1974 by a local businessman, Norman Hancock, parking his Jaguar on the level crossing to prevent its demolition.  The station was subsequently listed Grade II and became the original base of the grandly-titled Cheshire and Staffordshire Railway Society which ultimately became the Churnet Valley Railway.

Consall station was opened in 1902 to serve the nearby village and the workers of the adjacent forge and lime kilns.  The main building on the down platform is a reproduction, completed in 2002, after which the original 1902 shelter was reinstated on the restored up platform which abuts the Caldon Canal.

Kingsley & Froghall station is a convincing reproduction of the demolished original station.  After passenger services were restored in 2001, the main building on the down platform was completed two years later, followed by the shelter on the opposite side which, like Consall, overhangs the canal.

Timetabled services run on Wednesdays and at weekends from March to October, with additional operations for special events on bank holidays and other occasions:  Events Calendar – Churnet Valley Railway.

The on-train catering offers an impressive range of alternatives, from breakfast to curry night, and there is a tea-room at Kingsley & Froghall.  Prices range from £15 for pie-and-mash to £80 for a murder-mystery experience:  Steam Train Dining Experiences – Churnet Valley Railway.

This is a heritage railway that’s going places.

Caldon Canal

Caldon Canal: Consall Forge, Staffordshire
Caldon Canal: Consall Forge, Staffordshire

Whether you walk, cycle or cruise, the eighteen-mile Caldon Canal is an ideal connector between interesting places between Etruria, on the northern edge of Stoke-on-Trent, where Josiah Wedgwood established his famous pottery, and the depths of the little-known Churnet Valley, hidden from the noisy pleasures of the Alton Towers theme park.

The canal is practically a branch of the Trent & Mersey Canal, which financed its construction, climbing from Etruria to a summit level at Stockton Brook and then following the River Churnet to its terminus at Froghall within reach of the quarries at Cauldon.

It opened in 1778 and was quickly connected to numerous quarry tramroads, adding to the traffic on the main line of the Trent & Mersey, which became so heavily-used that water-supply problems caused intolerable hold-ups.

The canal company needed the support of landowners and townspeople around the market town of Leek in order to build an additional reservoir at Rudyard, so the three-mile-long Leek branch (1800-01) acted as a feeder for traffic as well as water.

A further waterway, the Uttoxeter Canal (opened in 1811), continued from Froghall through Oakamoor and past Alton Towers to Rocester and Uttoxeter.  The canal had a dedicated wharf to bring building materials for the Earl of Shrewsbury’s vast house and landscape garden.  A proposed further extension from Uttoxeter to Ashbourne remained unbuilt.

The Trent & Mersey Canal was sold, along with the Caldon Branch, to the North Staffordshire Railway in 1845, and the railway company saw potential in using waterways as feeders to their operations. 

The NSR closed the Uttoxeter Canal in 1849 in order to use the route for the track of the Churnet Valley Railway, and though canal traffic declined towards the end of the nineteenth century between Froghall, Leek and the railway, the waterway never actually closed.

However, it became practically unnavigable by the 1950s, and it was rescued by the Inland Waterways Association’s collaboration with Stoke-on-Trent City Council and Staffordshire County Council.  The main line to Froghall was reopened in 1974, followed by all but the last half-mile of the Leek Branch.

A particularly interesting walkable section of the Caldon Canal starting from Cheddleton Station southwards includes a length where the canal runs into the River Churnet, simply because there is insufficient room in the narrow valley to accommodate both waterways.

The canal and river separate at Consall, where the remains of the eighteenth-century limekilns are a reminder that this was an industrial area dependent on water for transportation. 

The canalside Black Lion pub [Black Lion, Consall Forge – CAMRA – The Campaign for Real Ale] is a welcome opportunity to rest and, if the timing’s right, it’s possible to return to Cheddleton from the picturesque station on the Churnet Valley Railway.

Detailed information about the places of interest along the canal is at The Ultimate Guide to the Caldon Canal – Leek branch – Black Prince.

Bradford Live

Former New Victoria Cinema, Bradford, now Bradford Live (2025)
Former New Victoria Cinema, Bradford, now Bradford Live: restaurant decorative detail (2025)

I was privileged recently to join a Cinema Theatre Association visit to Bradford Live, the newly-restored New Victoria Cinema (1930), which survived brutal alterations, persistent neglect and threats of demolition until it was rescued and impressively restored as a “world-class” concert venue.

It was, and is, a magnificent building.  It opened on September 22nd 1930 with a spectacular ceremony that included the film Rookery Nook and much else.  Its size ensured its physical and commercial survival through vicissitudes that have blown away many of its contemporaries.

It was designed by a Bradford architect, William Illingworth (1875-1955), and at its opening it was claimed to be the third largest cinema in England and the largest outside London. 

Two of its London rivals of greater size, the Davis Theatre, Croydon (opened December 18th 1928;  3,925 seats) and the Trocadero, Elephant & Castle (opened December 22nd 1930; 3,500 seats) have both gone. 

Comparisons, as the schoolboy said, are odorous.  There were other 1930s cinemas with capacity for around four thousand patrons, some of which survive such as the Granada Cinema, Tooting (opened September 7th 1931;  slightly less than 4,000 seats; currently a bingo club) and the Gaumont State Theatre, Kilburn (opened December 20th 1937;  4,004 seats;  now a church).

William Illingworth provided Bradford with a vast 3,318-seat auditorium with a Wurlitzer organ, facing a stage 70ft wide × 45ft deep, alongside a ballroom, a 200-cover restaurant and a tea-room café.  The auditorium decoration was dignified Italian Renaissance, while the comfortable, stylish front-of-house spaces included Art Deco features and warm, adventurous colour schemes.

Built for Provincial & Cinematograph Theatres, it was operated successively by the Gaumont and Odeon chains and prospered until the 1960s.  In particular, its stage and audience capacity meant that every significant rock and pop performer, excepting only Elvis Presley, appeared in Bradford, from Bill Haley and the Comets and Buddy Holly to the Beatles and the Rolling Stones.

Film and live performances in the auditorium ceased in 1968 – Rio Conchos and Tom Jones were the last shows.

The conversion to twin screens and bingo in 1968 was ferocious.  The structure was sufficiently robust and there was so much space that the two cinemas were built on the circle and gallery, and the stalls became a huge bingo club.  Most of Illingworth’s plaster decoration was ripped out, though a segment of the balcony plasterwork remained hidden in a void for decades.  The ballroom – redundant for twenty years – became a third screen in 1988.  Schemes to subdivide the building further in 1991 and 1994 came to nothing.

In July 2000 Odeon opened a multiplex at Thornbury, where 3,300 people (almost the original capacity of the New Victoria) could choose from sixteen different movies at any particular time of day.  The game was up for the Odeon cinemas in Bradford and Leeds.

As the Odeon Bradford gradually deteriorated, local people got together to oppose its destruction.  An exceptional campaigner, Norman Littlewood, with his wife Julie, founded the Bradford Odeon Rescue Group (BORG) in 2003.  Its most spectacular demonstration was the occasion in 2007 when a thousand people joined hands and hugged the Odeon.

Schemes to demolish and redevelop came and went until, partly through the efforts of urban explorers, it became apparent that significant amounts of original decorative features survived behind the 1968 alterations.

There’s an extensive exploration of the building showing its condition in 2014 at BRADFORD ODEON STRIPPING OUT ~ AUTUMN 2014, which is narrated by Mark Nicholson, author of the compendious history of the place, The People’s Palace:  the story of Bradford’s New Vic (Bradford Live 2022).

The building passed through the hands of a succession of entities until Bradford Live bought it from the city council for £1, and spent rather more than that – £50.5 million – on its transformation.

It’s a palimpsest – a document that’s been repeatedly erased and rewritten.  Under the aegis of the Aedas Arts Team, William Illingworth’s surviving work has been restored and replicated, particularly in the ballroom and restaurant.  Elsewhere the bare structure of two million bricks and one hundred tons of steel indicates the magnificence of the architect’s engineering:  https://cdn.rt.emap.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2018/12/28135511/20181203_aat_designandaccessstatementpart1.pdf.

It will be performance, particularly music, that makes this place pay.  The days when three thousand people will queue up to see the same movie at the same time are gone.

The crowded streets that hemmed in the New Victoria in 1930 have been opened out to create Centenary Square, so that Bradford Live sits alongside the Alhambra Theatre and the National Science & Media Museum, within a few minutes’ walk of St George’s Hall and on the doorstep of the University of Bradford campus.

Bradford is the City of Culture in 2025, and now that Trafalgar Entertainment has taken on the role of operator it’s clear that it will contribute much to the culture of the city for years to come:  Show will go on as operator revealed for Bradford Live venue | TheBusinessDesk.com.

Bradford Live does not appear on Bradford’s list of listed buildings.